And later we ran into the Germans again at the ferry to Tierra Del Fuego. They were a little concerned about riding 100 plus km’s of gravel so they rode with us and we were happy to oblige.
Later still, we were waved on past another construction site and the guy in the bulldozer was waving us through so we went into this really rough muddy grooved dirt. Both Nick and I squirmed our way through the small section and then stopped and turned around to see how the ladies were doing. We got a big laugh as the bulldozer was making a path for them, but still they managed to tip over as Monica couldn’t get her foot down solid. Some people behind them in trucks helped them up before we could get back there. I think the construction guys just wanted to see if we could get through.
We arrived at the Chile/Argentina fronterra and stayed here at this motel.
In the morning just as we were getting ready to leave the Germans tire went suddenly flat. Monica had only rode the bike 5 metres and stopped to let Bettina jump on and that’s when they noticed the tire was flat. They had tubless tires so they shot a can of sealant and air into it and then 500 metres later we stopped at the border to do the paper work and at the same time Monica pumped up the tire to full capacity with the help from some truckers.
It almost snowed but not quite. I was in the lead and noticed the ladies pull over so I went 20 metres up and stopped here to wait for everyone to warm up and again we were on our way.
Just through Ushuaia we stopped at Rio Pipo Campground, a lot of people had recommended it here and I agree. As soon as I walked in the Father of the family gave me a meat sandwich and a beer.
Nick and I are staying for Christmas at least. What a nice place, and as I speak, more riders are riding in. Here are some pictures Bettina took ….
This carries 18 people, Germans to be specific, and the sides open up. I asked the driver Markus, and the manager, Rolland, ‘If I go to Germany will there be any Germans there?’.
This is Roger from Brasil. We met several times on the road so in the night we will be having an Asado.
He’s rigged a 5 volt converter to his bike and can charge his camera, computer, ipod etc.
More German bikers having a chat.
A travel friend of Nick’s, Lucas also from Germany, rode this massive beast into the campground, along with three German riders on BMW’s. It’s called a Mog, and worth 200,000 Euros.
I rode into town to buy some oil for a change …
I did a bunch of bike maitenance then made a pasta for our English group and of course a cozy fire at the end of the night.
The coals were still hot in the morning so I made a coffee and wrote in my journal. Geez this commentary is boring.
Tonight is Christmas Eve so we will celebrate with the Germans who always do this on the 24th, as do the Spanish. Then tomorrow we will do it again; food, drink and talk. I hope no one gets any ideas to exchange gifts because this is the first time I don’t have to deal with the shopping, the Christmas music and the craziness of looking for something for someone who doesn’t need anything. I know, a Scrooge.
The sound above is only light conversation in the afternoon with wine, and the food has not yet been served. Kev and Lorraine, the English couple from the Viedma meeting are coming soon to get together and start cooking. At 7pm the owners of the casa are going to light the Asado and then all the meat will be cooked.
This beast owned by a French family here at the campground.
This is their young daughter Margot, decorating all the tables.
Food being prepared ….
And unfortunately we received this bad news ….
On Fri, Dec 25, 2009 at 11:27 AM, Annette Pearson <annettepearson@gmail.com>
Hey there, wrote:
Looks like I won’t make it down to Ushuaia for Christmas either. I woke up in the hospital in Rio Grande yesterday after being in intensive care for five days.
I still don’t know what happened other than I was heading to Ushuaia on the 19th Dec and almost made it to San Sebastian. Apparently my bike is near the border of Chile and Argentina.
Still better to happen 200km from the end than 200km from the beginning.
It was lovely meeting you all. I am wishing you all the best for your trips and I hope they are as much fun as mine was – but finish a bit better.
Lots of big Suzuki DR650 hugs to you all,
Annette xoxoxx
–
Follow my motorcycle trip across the Americas to raise money for Caza Alianza a Latin American Children’s Charity.
www.alaska2argentina.co.uk
We will stop in to visit her in the Rio Grande hospital and give her something for Christmas. A bunch of us also are co-ordinating ideas to find her bike and see what damage has been done and possibly ride it for her to Buenos Aries as she can’t fly or anything for one month. We raised our glasses for her, what a drag, so close she was, so very close. She had started her trip in Alaska, a solo woman.
The rest of the French family …
Many of the Germans in this photo ….
One person had to take multiple shots with multiple cameras, it’s so funny cause by the time you’re waiting for the 10th camera, one’s frozen smile is not very good. The trick is to have them use your camera first, for the natural pose.
Monica and Bettina, the German ladies, bought a few gifts, a flashlight.
Two of the three dogs, the black one I call ‘Suerte’, ‘Luck’. More about that dog later.
Here the family of the casa ….
CJ riding down from his home in Alaska and Daniel from New Zealand is the girlfriend of Bjorn who’s riding all over the world, covering some of his expenses from his beautiful photography.
And in came Paulo, the Brazilian from the Viedma meeting who took so long to pack before. He ate and had some drinks and then he was gone the next day.
In the night or early morning I woke up and left my tent for a wee and when I came back and was getting inside Suerte was poking me with his nose and then really tried hard to get inside. I had to use both hands and feet to keep him out. And when I rolled over to close the other side, (I don’t know why I opened both sides, late night I guess), he was there again trying to get inside. The interesting thing is he could have gone in while I was weeing in the bush, but as all good dogs know, he had to ask first. But I said no, no fleas in my tent thank you.
The next day I went down to the bottom of the world and the end of Ruta 3. I also stopped here at the post office, which is on the way down to the end of the road.
Senor stamped my passport and I have to admit I got all teary eyed, and so did the clouds.
So I rode in the cold rain, which never seems to last for too long. It’s hard to find the end of the world, for when I came to a ‘Y’ in the road I took the right where all the traffic was going only to reach a campground and a lake at the end of the road. So I rode back to the ‘Y’ and ended up riding back to Ushuaia a realised after about ten minutes. Maybe I should look at the map they gave me back at the entrance of the park. Oh, ooops, it’s that way.
I arrived at the end and much to my surprise a guy from Canada, Edmonton to be precise, who I had met in Northern Chile was also at the end of the world, so we took each other’s pictures. Eric is also riding a KLR, an ’09 and I can tell you from our discussion that his bike burns way more oil than mine does; double at least. However I had my rings changed under warranty, though I don’t know if this is the difference.
I had read one of Gregory Frazier’s books before starting on this journey, a famous Native American who has rode the world five times, all on different bikes. And I remembered that he had carved his name on the back of the sign and I had a look and there it was, ‘Greg Frazier 12/97′. So I did the same ….
There is Eric’s Alberta plate. We decided to get a bite to eat together.
When we said our good-bye’s, he asked me to pass on his email if I saw two Brazilian guys riding two Honda Shadows. They had spent some time together but forgot to exchange email’s. So no sooner than twenty mintues of riding the dusty leg of the Ruta 3, two bikes emerged and road on by. So I stopped and chased them down and told them that Eric was in the park and gave them his email. Later on Kev and Lorraine cooked a proper English Christmas dinner for the English lot; chicken, beef, yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, veggies and a delicious gravy. Kev was a chef in the Navy.
Here’s Tony with his camera apart, but he wasn’t able to fix it, the engine was broken he said.
It was a quiet evening as everyone was knackered from the fiesta the night before. This is the sky at 11:30pm.
The following day while everyone was inside the clubhouse, I made a fire by the river and wrote a little. The lens on my camera isn’t long enough to get really close shots of animals but this woodpecker was quite large.
I walked up to the clubhouse to get some water and Manfred and I found ourselves looking at each other. We crossed from Panama to Columbia together, along with our other friends. It was great to catch up on all the moto stories.
Bjorn doing a little work on his bike.
Nick and I headed into town to meet up with Kev and Lorraine, to have a bite and to check out the night life.
After eating we were walking around looking for a bar that had some life in it but we couldn’t find anything. Of course it was only midnight at this time. We saw the lights of this night club but when we approached we couldn’t hear any music, so I went inside to find six scantily clad women and one man looking at me with dull expressions. ‘Como? I said. They still just looked at me, Is this a Zorra? Still nothing. Okay, thank you, bye.
A while later I asked a young guy where a suave place was and he directed us back to Dublin’s Irish Pub where we had had pizza earlier. It was jam packed.
Some guys and gals I met outside and around the corner outside the bar invited me to a party later on, at 3:00am but I couldn’t I was too tired and had too much already to go wandering around until 7am so I said my good-bye’s to Kev and Lorraine, Nick had already gone back to the camp, and I walked down to the main strip to catch a taxi. This is where I found a staggette in progress, where the bride to be stops people for donations ….
The next day we were too tired to move on so we stayed along with a few other riders, all agreeing that we will leave tomorrow, maybe even together, we shall see. Anyway Nick and I went shopping to make dinner for 11 people. Well actually Nick is cooking, I’m doing this ….
I too cleaned my bike and finished up the last of the things like everyone else, all for the Ruta 40, the one road everyone talks about, and tells a different story. Actually we won’t reach the 40 for a couple of days but nonetheless, everyone is preparing.
We were going to leave Ushuaia but after last nights activity we decided to stay one more day, so we cooked an impromptu dinner using whatever anyone had for food.
Nick got to work in the kitchen, making a very good meal.
The next day was the funniest day I’ve had in a long time. We all packed and got ready to ride out together, said the good-byes, started the bikes, revved the engines and rode out waving. Five minutes later we rode into a traffic circle and all five bikes split in different directions. I stopped and Nick did too and we just watched as Bjorn and Danielle went one way while Tony and Ina went the other. That was the beginning of a day of laughter. Nick and I were in tears as though we were in a Mr. Bean episode. So we decided to head out of town and stop at the YPF station to fill up and see if we see the other four. When we arrived at a traffic light we again started laughing and slapping our knees so much so, the people waiting for the bus across the street started laughing too. I couldn’t see when the light turned green with all the tears in my eyes, but I did manage to make an illegal turn onto a one way street to go the short distance to the gas station and when I stopped and looked behind, no Nick. So I stood there laughing by myself. Two minutes later Nick rolled up laughing and well you get the picture.
After filling up and heading out of Ushuaia we saw Bjorn and Danielle filling up at another YPF so we pulled in only to find out that the plan all along was forB & D to stop somewhere to get a bulb and for T & I to continue out of Ushuaia for pictures and such. More laughing. Okay, so we head out ….
Then later on another YPF station, Bjorn and Danielle who were in the front road past, but Nick and I pulled into the station where Tony and Ina were waiting. So we had some coffee and told them the story and again more laughing. B & D did arrive and more laughing. What a bunch of stooges we were making fun of our debacle.
We pulled into Rio Grande to look for the hospital where Annette was being treated. After asking around we finally found it and in we marched looking for her. After following a nurse to the room of rooms, we waited outside until the nurse returned to tell us that Annette had checked out one hour ago and that she was going to be at Club Nautico.
After riding around in circles we were escorted to the campground only to find that she was not there either. Someone said she was at a certain hostal so off again to ride around in circles, taking peoples direction and asking again.
We asked for directions again, and again …..
The last time we stopped to ask for direction the pedestrain pointed and we all looked down the street thinking but we’ve been down there already and then one of us noticed that the woman was pointing right at the hostal, next door to the building we were parked at. More laughs. Annette had actually heard us riding around but couldn’t move quickly enough to wave us down. Annette’s doing well but it will take time to heal.
After coffee and a snack we hit the road.
Reaching the San Sebastian border Nick and I had more laughs. First the customs official was lightly checking our bags for meat or fruit and when he went to this big truck full of sheep Nick said, ‘Nope no carne here’. I had a headache from laughing so much.
It was kind of eerie these quiet sheep just looking at me.
At the Fronterra Hotel we all decided to bunk in a bunk house instead of camping. Nick, Tony and Ina in one room with three beds and Bjorn, Danielle and I in another room with three beds. While eating dinner and having some wine we were talking to another moto from England, two up husband and wife. Also some ladies travelling by van and a young Dutch man hitchiking through South America. The ladies had picked him up earlier in the day. I can’t remember his name but he was 21 and full of excitement, and youthful confidence for he had travelled a long way by bus and thumb. Later he asked us if it was possible for him to have a piece of the floor to sleep on, I said sure you can. Anyway we went back to the bunk house and in the common room was a wood stove, the cook and the waiter playing cards. They were playing a version of ‘crazy eights’ so the Dutch guy and I joined in while the others got ready for bed. After a few games the Dutch kid retired and after washing up so did I. I crept into the dark room and found that the kid was in my bed so I went into the other one. It didn’t matter as I had stashed my bags under the bed he was sleeping in so no need to move it over to mine. One has to keep things close by. Anyway, I fell asleep and later was woken by the sound of loud voices. What’s going on I said to Danielle who was in the bed next to mine. At this point Bjorn was giving the Dutch guy shit, both of them standing. Danielle replied, ‘Well I heard this sound and I saw the kid peeing into the corner, and into Bjorn’s bags. What, really?’ Sure enough I looked and the floor was all wet, while Bjorn was trying to pick his clothes out of the bag without getting urine on his hands, all the while giving the kid shit, ‘I’m sorry I was a sleep’. So for the next while it was the boy apologizing and Bjorn trying to get things sorted, ‘Don’t just stand there rinse these clothes in the sink!’. That was it for me, more laughing. After the dust has settled and everyone was quiet and in their beds I was giggling to myself, what a day. Unfortunately, that wasn’t the end for Bjorn and Danielle, I guess when I finally fell asleep I was snoring a good tune. Oooops, I had meant to put on a breathe right just in case that might happen.
In the morning after Nick learned of the incident and he asked me what happened well we laughed ourselves silly. Bjorn wasn’t too happy and Danielle quite sleepy looking.
Well I have to admit, we were joking about having to take a piss and such which might have drove Bjorn a little crazy but he couldn’t help it and either could we. So walking on egg shells and giggling quietly we had our breakfast. The young Dutch man sheepishly said good-bye and was walking to the border as the ladies he had hitched with the night before had already left. Uhmmm. While we were getting ready to mount the bikes Bjorn decided to take off so we said okay. When we were ready we rode off, still giggling inside our helmets. Sorry Bjorn, nothing against you, just one of those things. By the way, the night before I asked about a moto accident and senor of the hotel said the bike was at the police station across the road so I went over and asked to see what condition her bike was in. Not bad actually, busted rear light, mirrors done in, one pannier bent a little and the helmet was scratched up and the shield broken in half. But the tires were good, and the pegs and the steering was straight. After I told the gang Bjorn emailed Annette the news for she had no idea.
Nick’s only got I think a nine litre tank so we have to stop every now and again for a refill from his two 5 litre containers strapped to the side of his tank.
Here comes some light rain, I mean light snow ….
Nick, who we’ve given the name ‘Low budget rider’, well his rain proof bags got ripped to shreds from the wind. The windiest day for us all.
Yes, finally a gas station, and a really cool casa inside. We had some coffee and were given some cake from their own home next door. And just as we were setting off senor gave the four of us some neck warmers with the name of his station. And boy did they come in handy approaching Puerto Natales a while later.
Once in Puerto Natales we set up the tents at a great camp/hostal called Josmar or something like that, and then promptly went inside to sit by the wood stove, cook some dinner and talk about the day into the wee hours. We were all quite chilled, especially Tony who doesn’t have the advantage of moving around to warm up. The next day the ride to El Calafate ….
The Chilean border ….
… and the Argentinian border again. These two countries must have to do so much more paperwork than the other countries with all the border jumping.
We arrived at the Municipal Campsite which is a nice campsite with all the amenities and services one needs. We found the German family from Viedma waiting for us, Rebecca the oldest girl reserved some campsites for us and while we were saying our hellos I hear a familiar voice from behind, Roger the Brasilian we met in Ushuaia. He immediately said don’t worry I have the coals on the fire and fed us all with sausage and french bread and cold beer. We all retired early but before we did Roger told us he had driven from somewhere in Brasil to Usuaiha in nine days, which he said was no problem and could have done it faster except he was delayed by a ferry for half a day and he took two days in Valdez. But this comes from a guy who on the Ruta 3, strapped his throttle at a 120km/hr and leaned back on this luggage (a normal luggage case for flying), and with no hands rode the Ruta 3. He said, ‘The first 1000 kilometres is a little nerve racking but after you get so used to it that before I used to use my body to lean the bike over this way or that, but now I just turn my head a little to the left or right and the bike leans this way and that’.
This morning, being December 31st, I am catching up with this site, but more importantly trying to find a rear tire here in Argentina. The Pirelli 60 I got in Cordoba has worn down significantly and Tony thinks that all the ripio on the Ruta 40, well …. we don’t know if it’s thick enough to withstand the beating. I found a tour director for a moto tour group in Punta Arenas on line this morning who is trying to help me with my problem. I found the site on-line and he has been kind enough to reply back quickly. The only problem is the Chile/Argentina border and the incredible tax on imports 200% I’ve heard. Also how to get the money to his mechanic who has some tires, the visa has to be in his hands. I also have two numbers for moto shops on the Atlantic side but they aren’t answering right now, typical hours being 8-12 and 5-8, plus it’s New Years Eve. I just got word from Anibal from Patagoinabackroads.com He says his mechanic can ship to Puerto Natalles, Chili and I’ll deposit the money in his mechanics account. Yes! The only small problem is the holidays are on until the 4th of January, but that’s a small price to pay for something that could be much worse in the middle of nowhere. Alright time to do some other chores and get ready for the new year tonight. Feliz Ano Nuevo mi amigos!
Roger and Brasilian friends set out right away to start preparing food for New Years Eve. We all joined their camp bringing food and drink to celebrate together.
The next morning after breakfast I taught everyone to play the ‘Lumber Jack’ dice game and the were hooked after that. We played on and off all day.
The next morning each group was slowly packing their things, showering and such. I asked Nick, ‘Are we going today? Well when do you have to pick up the rear tire? The 4th. Well, I don’t know what are Ina and Tony doing? I don’t know should we make our decision based on their decision? Yeah. Yep.’
We talked to Tony and Ina and after the discussion with Tony’s riding pants half on (one leg in and one out) he said to Ina, ‘Map’. They discussed in German and then laughed and Tony started to take off his riding pants. When we asked the German family what they were doing they too said they will stay one more day. I said ‘Yes’ and motioned the rolling of dice and the girls said ‘Yes’. So Ina and I went shopping for all the meals for all the people for all the day and night.
When we came back with the shopping cart Tabea made a new game for herself.
A typical kid, she was hitting herself with the water bottle. We were joking that when she gets back to Germany she will do an essay in school about her trip and she will say’I sat in a stolen shopping cart and hit my head with a water bottle’.
Off to return the shopping cart, Tabea included.
Two days ago when I was catching up with this site I looked out the window and saw the gang gathered around the table laughing and rolling dice so I promptly stopped this and joined in on the fun.
Our camp dog who has been sleeping at the German site for the past three nights.
Tabea finding things to do again …
Rebecca was DJ for the night, choosing all the oldies.
The next day we all reluctantly started packing. After, we ate breakfast together and then said our good-bye’s, with of course a big photo shoot.
Shoot, I wish I had taken my hat off. The first to leave was Tony and Ina, maybe we’ll see you one day again. Then Nick and I rode off, stopping at the gas station only to find Tony and Ina. They waited for us and we rode out of Calafate together, parting ways at the Ruta 40, just like how our journey started back in Ushuaia …..
